Having just cracked into our
fourth week, we finally feel semi-settled.
Unlike the first two weeks, which were mission-impossible hectic, the
last week has thankfully been slower, enabling us to take in this mesmerizing place. At the risk of sounding repetitive, I can’t
say enough about the endless beauty here.
The hills are everywhere, covered with an abundance of fantastic hiking
trails, some traveling up steep, rocky inclines; others weaving through thick
groves and alongside exotic streams/ waterfalls. Alongside this natural wonderland, however,
is a complex and sometimes unsettling past.
A profound dichotomy exists that, in certain respects, mirrors our own -
one of extreme wealth and privilege on one hand and shattering poverty on the
other. The opulent villages in the Cape
Town suburbs are decorated with gorgeous Dutch homes, adorned with sprawling
gardens and lavish pools. Directly
beside which, townships suddenly surface, claustrophobic communities gorged with
hundreds of tin huts, all serving to highlight apartheid’s prior precision in isolating
and depriving eighty percent of the population.
Paradoxically, while traveling through a village last weekend, a stretch
of Gucci stores and Pilates gyms lined one side of the road and an ominous wall
encircling ramshackle homes the other. And
though apartheid is a thing of the past, a lingering resentment permeates the
air, with many wondering how to heal the wounds (which President Zuma greatly
exacerbated as President). The foolish
optimist in me believes education is the way, but, as I’m told by the locals,
education can’t work if children don’t see the value in it. Which begs the question of how to break
through this chronic sense of disillusionment.
What’s more, as the principal of my kids’ school pointed out, “if all the
nice homes are guarded by walls and electrical wire, how does South Africa become
a closer, more inclusive country?” Great question. Nevertheless, many others with whom we’ve
spoken are extremely positive, pointing to the new President, Cyril Ramaphosa, as
a “burst of sunshine” and referring to a number of his recent initiatives. According to them, we have come at a perfect
time, one which will see a much stronger South Africa in the near future.
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